Maximilian Davis’ Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Salvatore Ferragamo, showcased at Milan Fashion Week, was a remarkable blend of Italian elegance and Caribbean influences.
Backstage, Davis explained how he sought to reimagine the brand’s heritage by infusing a relaxed, organic ease into the collection. His inspirations spanned across eras and regions, drawing parallels between the laid-back Caribbean lifestyle and the effortless Italian approach to fashion.
Davis also took cues from the Arte Povera movement, integrating natural materials like linen and cotton with industrial elements to create modern, elevated everyday wear. The Salvatore Ferragamo collection featured innovative textures, including fabrics treated to replicate leather, while accessories like wooden heels and sculpted details provided a fresh take on Salvatore Ferragamo signature craftsmanship. Footwear, in particular, played a key role, with Davis reinterpreting Ferragamo’s iconic Oxfords and moccasins for a contemporary audience.
In the backstage atmosphere, Davis emphasized themes of liberation and emancipation, blending utilitarian outerwear with fluid dresses that moved with the models, embodying freedom and sensuality. The collection’s standout pieces included feathered evening gowns and intricate leather ‘scales,’ nodding to both 1920s fashion and the house’s roots in shoemaking innovation.
Davis continues to push boundaries at Salvatore Ferragamo, modernizing its identity while staying true to its artisanal roots. His leadership has brought a youthful, dynamic energy to the brand, and his upcoming collections will likely build on these themes, expanding the Ferragamo narrative through bold, textured designs and cultural fusions.
Salvatore Ferragamo: The Shoemaker of Dreams
The story of Salvatore Ferragamo is one of unparalleled craftsmanship, innovation, and a relentless pursuit of the perfect fit. From humble beginnings in Italy to becoming the cobbler to Hollywood’s brightest stars, Ferragamo didn’t just build a fashion house; he built a legacy rooted in the art of shoemaking. His journey began at the age of just nine when he crafted his first pair of shoes for his sisters’ confirmations, showcasing a prodigious talent that would define his life.
Emigrating to the United States in 1914, Salvatore Ferragamo eventually settled in Santa Barbara, California, and then Hollywood. It was here that his reputation was forged. As the “Shoemaker to the Stars,” he created exquisite, custom-fit footwear for the silver screen’s most iconic figures, including Mary Pickford, Joan Crawford, and Greta Garbo. His designs were integral to both their on-screen personas and their off-screen glamour, cementing his name as a synonym for luxury and style.
Innovation Born from Necessity
Salvatore Ferragamo return to Italy in 1927 coincided with the rise of Fascism and economic sanctions that created a shortage of high-quality materials. This constraint, however, sparked a period of incredible innovation. Forced to find alternatives to traditional steel shanks, Salvatore Ferragamo experimented with unconventional materials like cork, cellophane, and fish skin. His most famous invention from this era is the “Cage Heel” or “F-Heel,” constructed from nylon thread, which provided structural support while maintaining a light, elegant aesthetic.
His scientific approach to footwear was revolutionary. He studied human anatomy at the University of Los Angeles to understand the foot’s biomechanics better. This led to his pioneering development of the reinforced steel shank to support the arch—a feature now standard in high-heel construction. Ferragamo’s philosophy was that style should never compromise comfort; a shoe must be a perfect marriage of art and engineering.
Building an Enduring Fashion Empire
While Salvatore Ferragamo passed away in 1960, his vision was carried forward by his wife, Wanda, and their children. Under their stewardship, the company expanded beyond its legendary footwear roots into a full-scale global luxury brand. The 1970s and 80s saw the introduction of ready-to-wear clothing, silk scarves, leather goods, and the iconic “Gancini” logo, which became an instantly recognizable symbol of Italian luxury.
The brand has continued to thrive by balancing its rich heritage with contemporary relevance. It has been led by a succession of creative directors, including the late Maximilian Davis, who have injected modern sensibilities into the house’s classic codes. The Ferragamo family’s continued involvement in the business has ensured that Salvatore’s core principles—obsessive attention to detail, superior craftsmanship, and innovative design—remain at the heart of everything the company does.
Today, Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. is a publicly traded company with a global retail network. The house’s museum in Florence stands as a testament to its founder’s genius, chronicling his life and the evolution of his craft. The brand’s enduring appeal lies in its unwavering commitment to quality and its unique origin story: a tale of an Italian immigrant who used talent, tenacity, and a deep understanding of science and art to become one of the most celebrated names in fashion history.
